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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.